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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.